Restaurant Review: Beastro, Manchester

Camille Allcroft checks out Beastro in Manchester where it’s all about eating locally-sourced produce

The previous venture from the Beastro team, Bangers and Bacon, became renowned for street food, serving up hearty brunch and lunch dishes. Chef Richard Brown has once again united with James and Heather Taylor of Bobby’s Bangers to create Beastro, which launched in the spring in Spinningfields, Manchester. A casual dining hotspot, Beastro use local suppliers to source premium produce for their simple and elegant menu and the team know the whole field to fork journey of their ingredients.

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The first impression when you walk in is one of warm and friendly charm, the vibe is relaxed and welcoming and wooden furniture and large windows create a farmhouse kitchen appeal in the bright open-plan space which also has a chef’s table overlooking the kitchen.

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Our first taste of the food was a selection of bread and bacon butter and the slabs of fluffy white bread were a treat with the smoky butter laced with chunks of crispy bacon. My starter of carrot and red lentil soup was rustic and tasty, with added tang from the garnish of vine tomatoes and basil oil. Another starter of beetroot and goat’s cheese terrine was a hit with our table, the mild and creamy goat’s cheese was nicely balanced with the earthy beetroot and the dish was beautifully presented.

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On to mains and there is a choice of sirloin, rump or fillet steak available, whilst pan fried pheasant breast and rabbit stuffed with black pudding sounded tempting too, as did the stroganoff which can be served with either beef or mushrooms.

My choice of leek crumble with buttered greens was a winner, the golden crumble topping gave way to layers of mild leeks and I liked the innovation of this savoury crumble, which has remained on the menu since launch due to its popularity. Sirloin steak with chimichurri sauce was a satisfying main course too and the perfectly cooked steak was complemented by indulgent beef dripping chips.

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Special mention should go to the dessert menu, it is always underwhelming to order a cheese board only to be given mere slivers of cheese, but happily that problem was not evident at Beastro, as we were presented with a board bearing large hunks of Stilton, smoked cheddar, Brie and Mrs. Kirkham’s Lancashire. The Wimbledon tart was a revelation, a lovely summer dessert which was not overly sweet, with finely sliced strawberries on a layer of Pimms infused crème pâtissière within a buttery shortcrust pastry case.

Drinks are not neglected either; there is a well-rounded wine list, a selection of spirits and a wide range of beers on offer. It is pleasing to see an independent restaurant making its mark in the competitive Spinningfields area and the food and hospitality at Beastro is deservedly gaining a loyal following. I had a good chat to Richard and his enthusiasm and passion for cooking shines through in every bite of his rather tasty food.

Make it happen
Price: Starters from £4, mains from £11 and desserts from £5
Where to find it: Beastro  Irwell Square, Manchester M3 3AG
0161 327 0265, beastromcr.co.uk

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