Restaurant Review: Angler


In our Feb/March issue, Carole Hamilton ascends to seafood heaven atop a chic City hotel.

On a perpetual mission to encourage us to eat more fish, I’m eager to sample the menu at Angler – the restaurant sat atop the D&D South Place Hotel. The kitchen is in the skilled hands of Phil Howard’s former head chef at The Square, Gary Foulkes, whose cooking indicates he loves seafood as much as I do.

The venue 

Angler interior-2

Hotel restaurants can feel like something of an after-thought, but that’s not the case at Angler. Located beneath a dramatic glass ceiling, this dining room oozes sophistication. My recommendation is to start with a glass of bubbly on the terrace, which even in January boasts a welcoming atmosphere, its fur-strewn seats encouraging you to linger. In summer, meanwhile, a retractable roof allows you to make the most of warm weather.

It’s places like this that are transforming the City at weekends. Come Saturday, this area around Liverpool Street used to be completely dead, but now the streets are buzzing with people flitting between the myriad restaurants and bars.

The food and drink 

South Place - Angler - Octopus Minestrone1

A variety of menu options offer flexibility around time constraints. There’s a seven-course tasting menu (£85), the drool-worthy seven-course ‘chef ’s view’ menu (£100), or an à la carte. At lunchtime, we opt for the latter, beginning with deliciously delicate chef ’s snacks ahead of my beautiful langoustine, rich oyster cream, crab, caviar and cucumber jelly, and my companion’s hand-picked Dorset crab with Granny Smith apple and Oscietra caviar.

I start to appreciate what makes Angler so Michelin-worthy – creativity and freshness is often all you need to make a dish both delicious and memorable. I’m pleased with my choice of Cornish monk fish with an innovative smoked potato and carbonara onions for my main, whilst the ‘tasting of Iberian pork’ with burnt apples and root veggies is enough to have my friend declaring it as one of the best dishes ever.

South Place - Angler - Tartare of Sicilian Prawn

This kitchen evidently enjoys making dessert, and each appears as a picture of meticulous preparation. We can’t resist the caramelised pear with brioche ice-cream or the warm baked chocolate with banana milk ice-cream – and the latter proves so moreish that my companion is lucky to get a mouthful. Truffles and a glass of warm, sticky Hungarian Royal Tokaji 5 Puttonyos send us into chocolate overload, and complete one of my favourite meals of the past twelve months.

The verdict
Gary and his team pay elegant homage to seafood, and Angler’s lucky diners benefit from some of the best fish dishes to be found anywhere in London

Top tip: Try the fantastic-value Evening Standard menu – £30 for three courses with an aperitif. Dine on a Monday to enjoy a selection of wines at half price. 

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