Sexy Fish restaurant review

Sexy Fish - Rice Cracker Rock Lobster
Carole Hamilton follows in the footsteps of the A-list to find out what all the fuss is about.

Tom Parker-Bowles called Sexy Fish ‘a piscine pleasure palace’, Grace Dent found her ‘perfect plaice’ and Giles Coren said it was ‘impossible not to adore’ – praise indeed from three of London’s pickiest food critics. And being a bit of a sucker for all things OTT, I was prepared to be equally smitten.

The Venue

Sexy Fish - Frank Gehry-crocodile
A blingy addition to Berkeley Square, Sexy Fish fills the space that was once a bank and is now a glittering homage to excess. The restaurant,  part of the same group as The Ivy, The Caprice and J. Sheekey, cost an eye-watering £15 million to transform; largely due to its acres of marble, water wall and the much-hyped art from Frank Gehry and Damien Hirst. The overall effect was a little too ‘posh brasserie’ for my taste, although I did love the silver fish floating over the bar.

The Food
Fish with an Asian twist is a particular favourite, and chef Ben Orpwood’s menu doesn’t disappoint. The idea is to share a mix of smaller and larger dishes amongst your party, ordering three or four per person. Although this means you get to taste lots of dishes, whittling down your shortlist is a challenge. At £110 a pop, we passed on Wagyu beef, delicious as I’m sure it was.

Service is quick, efficient and very friendly, and a bowl of well-salted, warm edamame beans keeps you going while you wait. Dishes come as and when they are ready so you experience a steady stream of deliciousness. Our table was soon covered with well-executed, beautiful plates: prawn tempura (£14), yellowtail sashimi (£14), duck salad (£13.50), maple pork belly skewers (£4.50), beetroot salad (£11) and soft-shell crab (£12.75). With light, crisp batter and dashi dipping broth, the large tempura prawns proved to be our favourite. The tables at Sexy Fish are quite close together, which is likely to cause severe food envy as you feast your eyes on your neighbour’s order – in my case, the amazing-looking king crab leg.

Sexy Fish - Matcha ginger marble cake
Save room for the sublime cinnamon doughnuts, served with chocolate sauce and citrus curd (£8.50). Giles Coren declared them, ‘so big and puffy and light they might have been the bollocks of candyfloss lambs’, and I couldn’t have put it better myself.

The Verdict
At lunchtime, the appeal of the sparkly mermaid and mirrored crocodile were a little lost on me, but perhaps the glitzy decor works better after dark. I would give the food a big thumbs up, on the other hand, and it’s definitely worth the inevitable long wait for a table reservation at what is currently London’s most hip-and-happening restaurant.


Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, London W1J 6BR | | T: @SexyFishLondon

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