Shilla 21146908 (c) iStockMasks, glowing paper lamps and paintings of Korean life hang from the deep cove-like interior, sheltered from the bustle of Dundas Street by a big, heavy door. The eponymous Shilla was once one of the Three Kingdoms of Korea, and the longest lasting in Asian history. It was founded by King Park Hyeokgeose, who was said to have been born from an egg laid by a brilliant white horse.

Eggs are on the menu in Shilla, but they don’t contain kings so much as lovely, yellow yolk, which flows through kimchi bokum bab, a fried rice dish, once you pierce it. The four-chambered interior, each with its own take on Korean heritage, reintroduces the theme that Korean culture is always being adapted and translated. Dishes like scallop gu yi – chargrilled scallop drizzled on by the chef’s special sauce – are deeply traditional, playing on South Korea’s history as a seafaring nation.

For mains, the vegetarian options immediately jump out. Doen jang jji gae is a soya bean broth, but its intensity is guaranteed with the motley assortment of tofu, fresh clams, seasonal vegetables and rice, broiled and delicious. The ddouk bok yi, a Korean ‘youngsters’ favourite’, also sets your taste buds alight. With rice cakes, fish caes, vegetables, all marinated and cooked in a tangy, chilli sauce, this is a simple feast that always hits the spot.

13B Dundas St, Edinburgh EH3 6QG | 0131 556 4840 | T: | FB: Shilla Korean Restaurant

For the top 10 best Korean restaurants reviews, check out: The best Korean restaurants in the UK

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