Team favourite: Coya

Andre Jackson discovers that the much-hyped Peruvian place in London is as much to his taste as it is to our Guest Editor Alfred Prasad’s

Nestled in the richest part of Piccadilly, amongst the glitz and glamour of Park Lane, Coya is the latest culinary adventure of restaurateur Arjun Waney. Known for his highly successful Japanese restaurant brands, Roka and Zuma; Coya is his first attempt at harnessing the current popularity of Peruvian restaurants in London. It’s a big commitment to have setup such a niche cuisine in one of the most expensive parts of town, but as has come to be expected with Waney, it’s of the very highest quality.

The venue

In an area that can often feel devoid of any real soul or colour, Coya brings a real sense of determined South American verve to Piccadilly. It might not be inherently obvious from the outside, it’s a listed building that would comfortably harbour a five-star hotel, but the interior embodies South American culture well. The pisco bar area is densely wooded with low lighting, masking the true size of the restaurant that boasts an impressive dining area complete with a ceviche bar and an open charcoal grill.

The food and drink

Ceviche (marinated and diced raw fish), tiraditos (thinly sliced raw fish) and small skewers of grilled meat and fish called anticuchos kick-off this wonderfully comprehensive menu, written by ex-Zaika head chef Sanjay Dwivedi. Ceviche of sea bream with Amarillo chilli, crispy corn and coriander (£8) and a punchy tiraditos of yellowtail with green chilli, coriander and lime (£14) were particularly fresh, tasting as great as they were presented. Although pricey (as you’d expect in the area), the mains were excellent. Cooked in a Josper oven, the rib-eye (£35) was as fresh and tender as you’re likely to find in London. The cocktail list kicks off with pisco, the brandy-like national drink of Peru – the straightforward sours is frothy and tangy (£11) and the wine list is so extensive you’ll likely be calling over the sommelier as soon as you get the chance.

The verdict

As expected, service was impeccable and the waiters were comfortingly knowledgeable about every aspect of the menu. A menu that has so much to offer it would certainly require more than one trip to truly appreciate it. Coya is a genuine treat. Wonderful food, a buzzing atmosphere and yet another example of why London loves Peruvian cuisine.

  •  Average price for a three-course meal for two and pisco sours – £180

118 Piccadilly, London W1J 7NW | 020 7042 7118 | | T: @coyalondon_ | FB: coyalondon


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