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Good Things’ Picture Editor Alice Griffiths enjoys an evening of Indian fine dining at Vineet Bhatia’s sumptuous Michelin-starred restaurant…

A stone’s throw away from London’s Sloane Street, Vineet Bhatia, one of the capital’s finest Indian restaurants offers a relaxing evening full of discovery.

As you approach the Georgian townhouse restaurant and ring the doorbell, you could be fooled into believing you are entering a private club – or even someone’s home – and the warm welcome continues inside. Seated in a plush booth, the restaurant offers a intimate and elegant setting from which to enjoy some stunning cooking.

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Diners to the newly refurbished restaurant are served a tasting menu of 16 dishes, with half a dozen presented as amuse-bouche-sized starters, five slightly larger meat and fish mains and a further five puddings and petit-fours; a vegetarian menu is also available. But don’t worry, the lack of carbs means that the menu is a delight rather than an endurance test!

The canapés are suitably representative of the contemporary cookery that is Vineet’s signature. The sago papad and aloo-yoghurt chaat, are simply delicious and represent his memories of street vendors in his home city of Mumbai.

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Cooking modern, progressive Indian cuisine, he says of his food: ‘My cooking is from my heart and from my mind. You can’t pigeonhole and say that it’s from south India or north India, it’s a blend of cuisine from within India, but we use local British products and we give them a new dimension.’

Taking ingredients and techniques from wherever he finds them – but still retaining a respect for regional Indian cuisines we marvel at his ability to balance unusual flavours. A highlight for me was the excellent grilled lobster, served with an elegant sauce of coconut, kaffir lime and lemongrass and presented with spongy discs of dhokla crowned with a frothy surf of squid ink foam. And who could resist the salted caramel kulfi, as sophisticated as a parfait, arrives on a pink slab of Himalayan salt.

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The careful selection of ingredients, cooking techniques and often elaborate styling of each dish, combine to create the feeling that Vineet is bringing more to the table than just food – he wants diners to delight in the total experience. And delighted we were.

Where: Vineet Bhatia, 10 Lincoln Street, London SW3
Cost: Tasting menu £105, with wine flight, £175
Bookings: To make a reservation, click here.

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